[ti:Fashion Industry Clears Its Calendar, Looks to Other Changes] [by:pzw8555.cn] [00:00.00]更多听力请访问pzw8555.cn [00:00.04]From Armani to Gucci, top fashion houses [00:04.84]are slowing the rate at which they hold fashion shows [00:09.48]and launch new lines of clothing. [00:13.68]The move comes as the coronavirus health crisis [00:17.88]forces the fashion industry to re-think the way it operates. [00:23.80]High-end designers are reducing the number of collections [00:29.48]they show at fashion weeks throughout the year in London, [00:34.80]Paris, Milan, and New York City. [00:38.72]It has been more than two months since health officials [00:44.84]around the world announced stay-at-home orders [00:47.60]to limit the spread of the coronavirus. [00:51.12]Since then, many stores have been closed, [00:55.08]and fashion houses have suspended work at factories [01:00.64]that manufacture their products. [01:02.92]Bain & Company, a business advisory service, [01:07.68]estimates the $310 billion luxury goods industry [01:13.20]will report a drop in sales this year of up to 35 percent. [01:19.96]Fashion houses are struggling with lots of unsold products. [01:25.60]And the possibility of price cuts on high-end goods [01:31.08]could damage their public image as well as harm profits. [01:36.44]Designer Michael Kors was the latest to call [01:40.60]for a post-virus slowdown in the fashion calendar. [01:45.24]His business pulled out of New York's fashion shows in September. [01:52.04]Kors said he would only make two collections a year [01:56.96]– one for spring and summer, and one for autumn and winter. [02:02.64]This means no longer producing "resort and pre-fall" collections. [02:09.84]These collections offer holiday wear for foreign travel. [02:15.20]They have added to the number of designers' creations [02:18.92]that critics say do not meet people's needs, especially in a recession. [02:25.32]Robert Burke is founder of Robert Burke Associates, [02:30.16]a service that advises luxury sales businesses. [02:35.04]He told the Reuters news agency the move towards fewer collections [02:41.16]is linked to the public's move away from disposable fashion. [02:46.96]The debate about the nature of the fashion industry pre-dates the coronavirus. [02:53.80]But it has been given a sense of urgency by the health crisis, [02:59.64]which is pressuring companies to cut costs [03:03.20]and sell products without losing too much money. [03:07.68]Kors said shipments of his products would from now on arrive in stores [03:14.12]slowly over the spring/summer and autumn/winter seasons. [03:19.40]This more closely represents "how customers actually live and shop," [03:25.56]representatives of his company said. [03:28.68]Armani, in an open letter to fashion industry publication WWD, [03:34.96]said luxury businesses should stop following fast fashion delivery calendars. [03:42.00]"It makes no sense for one of my jackets or suits to live in the shop [03:48.08]for three weeks before becoming ... replaced by new goods [03:52.68]that are not too different," he wrote. [03:55.68]Alessandro Michele, who made Gucci highly profitable for French owner Kering, [04:02.52]has said he would cut the company's yearly shows from five to two. [04:08.16]And in its end-May earnings presentation, [04:12.36]Ralph Lauren said it was working on less seasonal products, [04:17.16]and more clothing that has all-around use. [04:21.88]Lauren's chief financial officer Jane Nielsen [04:26.28]said the summer collection would stay in stores through August. [04:31.28]Companies like Gucci and LVMH's Dior have used more frequent collections [04:39.44]and costly events in untraditional places [04:43.00]to appeal to wealthy buyers, especially in China. [04:47.80]With luxury spending hit by the crisis, some industry insiders say [04:54.20]it no longer makes sense to have a huge advertising budget. [04:59.56]A fashion show can cost well over $1 million. [05:05.28]The move towards showing and producing less also is evidence [05:10.84]of a changing relationship between fashion companies [05:14.68]and big department stores in the United States. [05:19.00]The stores' owners long controlled the timing of product releases [05:24.84]to keep their products looking fresh. [05:27.88]Ron Frasch, former president of Saks Fifth Avenue, [05:32.80]said the health crisis has sped up the collapse of Neiman Marcus [05:38.20]and other top U.S. stores. [05:41.60]The old method of doing business is now [05:45.16]increasingly being called into question, he noted. [05:49.80]Yet some fashion designers are resisting the call for a lighter fashion calendar. [05:56.52]Chanel, which in a show of strength increased prices in May, [06:02.36]said it would still release six collections a year. [06:06.96]I'm Pete Musto. 更多听力请访问pzw8555.cn